Congratulations! I have been following your collection here and in automotiveforums.com and your builds are just delicious.
Do you have any personal website where I can see all your collection?
Tks
Progress: Tecnomodel 1/24 Ferrari 575 GTC
As per your username (P64) you were born in 1964. I was born in 1974, when I will have your age, in ten years from now, perhaps my modelling skills will be like 10% of yours.
Congratulations! I have been following your collection here and in automotiveforums.com and your builds are just delicious.
Do you have any personal website where I can see all your collection?
Tks
Congratulations! I have been following your collection here and in automotiveforums.com and your builds are just delicious.
Do you have any personal website where I can see all your collection?
Tks
Body is now almost ready. Painting and decaling have been carried out over a period of three weeks and consisted in the following process:
Overall wet sanding with #1500 grit
Lechler matt white primer
Lechler gloss white
PPG gloss red (Rosso Scuderia 323), masking with Tamiya tape
Talken gloss black for sideskirts, masking with Tamiya tape
Kit decals applied with the help of Mr. Mark Softer from Gunze
Lechler epoxy clearcoat
Many thanks for the comments. Alessandro
Overall wet sanding with #1500 grit
Lechler matt white primer
Lechler gloss white
PPG gloss red (Rosso Scuderia 323), masking with Tamiya tape
Talken gloss black for sideskirts, masking with Tamiya tape
Kit decals applied with the help of Mr. Mark Softer from Gunze
Lechler epoxy clearcoat
Many thanks for the comments. Alessandro
Hi Guys, I blackened the areas of the windows trims, hand-painted the inner parts with Humbrol semi-gloss black and also painted all the panel lines. I painted without any care the lines with Tamiya semi-gloss black X-18 and, once dried, I removed the excess with a scratch-remover (Arexons Rimuovi Graffi in this case), obtaining a straight and clean line. I also glued on the body the lateral air outlets housings and the grilles on the rear bumper and added the windshield stiffener made of square styrene strip
Side skirts have been totally carbon covered with BBR decals, applied OMP logos from the kit and I decided to replace the heat protection plate decals provided in the kit with bare metal foil for more realism. Then glued the exhaust pipes on each side with superglue.
Have a nice weekend ! Alessandro
Side skirts have been totally carbon covered with BBR decals, applied OMP logos from the kit and I decided to replace the heat protection plate decals provided in the kit with bare metal foil for more realism. Then glued the exhaust pipes on each side with superglue.
Have a nice weekend ! Alessandro
Hello ! The taillights have been molded in solid red resin, with a very poor realism. So I copied them in clear resin and, following a tip Robi J gave me, to better paint them I drilled out the central parts replacing it with some clear rods I found on a Tamiya sprue. I painted the taillights with Tamiya X-22, X-26 and X-27. Then, the additional brake light is provided with red-coloured resin which is not correct for the Barron Conner cars. I sanded down the resin up to the etched parts and replaced the clear lens with UHU-plus slow epoxy glue.
Thanks for the comments, as always. Alessandro
Thanks for the comments, as always. Alessandro
Hi Guys, taillights have been finally placed. Headlight housings have been painted with Humbrol chrome silver and from scrap parts I found some headlights lenses, glued to the boby with white glue and then painted with Humbrol clear yellow. Headlight covers have been also glued to the body with the same glue using Tamiya masking tape to hold them in place overnight.
Clear parts has been the most challenging part of this building. Window frames come in etched form (that I sprayed with automotive semi-gloss black) and have to be glued to the pre-cut glass parts. The risk to damage them at this step is high, I glued the frame to the clear parts with a sort of mastic (Bison in this case) and, once dried, I carefully and gently bent them to conform to the boby shape and glued to it with Bindan white glue. Again I fixed all the clear parts with Tamiya masking tape to the body and let dry for 24 hours. With the most care possible I’ll remove tomorrow the masking tape.
Alessandro
Clear parts has been the most challenging part of this building. Window frames come in etched form (that I sprayed with automotive semi-gloss black) and have to be glued to the pre-cut glass parts. The risk to damage them at this step is high, I glued the frame to the clear parts with a sort of mastic (Bison in this case) and, once dried, I carefully and gently bent them to conform to the boby shape and glued to it with Bindan white glue. Again I fixed all the clear parts with Tamiya masking tape to the body and let dry for 24 hours. With the most care possible I’ll remove tomorrow the masking tape.
Alessandro
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Patrick Bateman
- Mensagens: 1157
- Registado: sexta fev 13, 2004 7:02 pm
- Localização: Linda-a-Velha
